Fenix, a new Greek restaurant in London's Mayfair, is a maximalist's dream, offering a vibrant and ornate dining experience that defies the current trend of minimalist, single-sheet menus. The restaurant is the brainchild of the Permanently Unique group, known for their flamboyant and profitable Chinese restaurant chain, Tattu. Fenix, with its Athenian-inspired interior, is a stark contrast to the understated hospitality of today, inviting diners to indulge in a sensory extravaganza.
The review highlights the restaurant's ability to elevate simple dishes to a luxurious level. The moussaka, deconstructed with short rib, Cretan graviera cheese, and caramelized aubergine, is a rich and indulgent small plate. The taramasalata, smoked and served as a soft, white, silky, pungent pile, is a delightful starter. The hummus, scattered with paprika and served with warm pitta, is also a standout dish.
The all-day set menu offers a good value option, with two courses for £34.50 and three for £39.50. The main list features elevated versions of classic dishes, such as the fried calamari, which is crisp, light, and tempura-battered with coriander, a lime and olive oil dressing, and spicy mayonnaise. The tuna, truffle, and caviar tartare is also highly praised for its top-quality fish and beautiful presentation.
Fenix is a polar opposite to the groundbreaking and totemic Impala, which is dark, moody, and not for everyone. Fenix, on the other hand, is big, bright, brash, dumbed down, shameless, and open to all. The dessert menu features a vanilla creme brulee, served to share with crumble, caramelized apples, and cinnamon ice-cream, which is a clear nod to French cuisine. Despite the criticism of playing to low tastes and deep pockets, Fenix is fun and frothy, and it will undoubtedly infuriate many.
In conclusion, Fenix is a restaurant that embraces excess and indulgence, offering a unique dining experience that is thoroughly fit for purpose. It is a bold statement in a world of understated hospitality, and it is sure to divide opinions among diners.
